The French Journal

It's mai, It's mai, the not so lusty month of mai

Three "timely" articles for you:

• May breaks. Time suggests that the month of May is a tough time for French employers because of several national paid holidays which often "bridge" to even longer weekend breaks.
• Barricade breaks. It's the 40th anniversary of the riots of 1968, a seminal event in France and in the lives of people of a certain age. The NY Times examines the legacies of the upheaval, ranging from societal (but not governmental) changes to self-congratulation to commemorations like a special tea sold at the gourmet store Fauchon "...with the perfume of revolution.” (Price: about $23.50.)
• Price breaks. The NYT (again) focuses on a French family as it relates the pain of how monetary inflation is impacting Europeans. Chilling quote: “In France, when you can’t afford a baguette anymore, you know you’re in trouble.”

Muslims in France: An overview

I can't pretend to understand the intricacies of the situation of Muslims who live in France, but I do know that it's volatile. For those like me who would like a primer on the issues, Spiegel On-Line has an overview of the life of Muslims in France. The article cites "discrimination on a daily basis: when their tickets are checked on the metro, when they have to meet the bouncer’s approval to enter a disco, when they go in for a job interview and when they apply for a bank loan"  Observers say it's not a question of integration, but of being characterized by their religion, which is viewed with suspicion and distrust. And a bickering local Muslim Council has been unable to provide leadership to ease the issues. All-in-all, a fascinating read.

Related to this story, from The Washington Post via French Culture Now: estimates that Muslims make up 60 to 70 percent of France's prison population.

NYT Day: Preserving France's lighthouses

There have been lots of stories in the New York Times over the last few days about one of my deux amours, so I going to play catch up. First, today's paper has an interesting look at French lighthouses, a lovely aspect of the patrimoine, but one that is literally in danger of crumbling. In particular danger are those which are off-shore and run remotely; given that GPS units have made their functionality almost irrelevant, not a lot of money will be directed to their upkeep, since they are essentially inaccessible. Still, the article notes that the buildings have a special romantic place in the French imagination; lighthouse keepers are lionized. And the fact of the lighthouses' deterioration may eventually bring attention to the need for preservation of some of the of the dozens of land-based edifices.

Old news from the IHT (and me): Heritage food, Saint-Exupéry, Poussin

The stories have been kickin' around for awhile, but these articles from The International Herald Tribune are fresh, and I haven't mentioned two of the subjects here, so for you enlightenment:

• Fossilizing French cuisine. Sarko has kicked off an effort to have French cuisine recognized a UNESCO World ...er...monument? Actually, it would be classified as an "intangible cultural heritage." Opponents suggest that the designation would officially indicate that French cuisine is ossified and irrelevant.
• Who killed the Little Prince? The circumstance behind the disappearance of writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry on a flight during World War II is one of aviation's great mysteries. Recent discoveries, however, have helped to pinpoint the site where Saint-Exupéry's plane crash, and a German man and former pilot has proclaimed, with great sorrow, that he was the one who shot down the writer.
• Poussin, continued. I wrote my modest appreciation last month about an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York of works by Nicolas Poussin. An expert's review of the "gripping" paintings is now available.

TJF news round-up: The Tower is spared, Nouvel, Delon, another Sarko divorce?, Steves on drugs

As many updates as I can squeeze into 25 minutes:

• At least my instincts were right. Praise be to Charles Bremner, who reports that the story about the redesign of the Eiffel Tower, which I blogged last week with the header "This is a joke, right?", is indeed a joke. Now if I could only retract the nasty-gram I sent to the Eiffel Tower authorities. (HT Learn French with the Bible.)
• Nouvel news. French architect Jean Nouvel has been awarded the Pritzker Prize, one of the most prestigious recognitions in the field. Nouvel is only the second French citizen to be so honored. Christian de Portzamparc was the first. (Business Week)
• Delon-ly life. A new box of DVDs featuring the lithe and lovely Alain Delon has been released in the United States. The New York Times's review of the set concentrates on La Piscine/The Swimming Pool, a roundelay of sex and sun. Amazon is selling the set for a dirt cheap $31.00.
• Bruni/Sarko divorce? Not really, but it's April Fools Day, and I need to liven things up.
• Steves on Mont Saint Michel, plus drugs. I just wrote about Mont-Saint-Michel, sort of, last week, so I'll simply make you aware that Rick Steves has syndicated his view of its magnificence for those who can never get enuff (CNN). BTW, Steves is praised in an NYT op-ed piece today for his progressive stance on the decriminalization of marijuana. And that isn't a joke.

TFJ news round-up

Bits and pieces:

• The honeymoon's over. The American love affair with President Sarkozy may be having a rough patch, if The New York Times editorial from Saturday is any indicator. Entitled "President Bling-Bling," it says "...when a politician’s behavior gets in the way of his mission, it’s time for a dose of discipline."
• The honeymoon's begun. As had been expected, the ex-Mrs. Sarkozy married Richard Attias, a public relations executive, in a ceremony at New York's Rockefeller Center. I wasn't invited. (BBC)
• French students: ready for the market? A report from the BBC suggests that too many French university students are following paths that leave them unprepared for the "real world" of work.
• Lourdes, British style. Articles about Lourdes are likely to be plentiful this year, given the 150th anniversary of the miracle. This story from The Times (London) about one of France's most visited sites has a more sardonic view than most: in a reverse of tradition, the reporter, who has covered religion for a long time, came back from her visit to the Grotto sick as a dog.
• This is a joke, right? Announced for next year: a new design for the Eiffel Tower (The Guardian). The idea is to extend the viewing area on the third level. They are saying it's not permanent, but it's not clear what they mean by this exactly: is it a temporary addition for the 120th anniversary of the tower, or do they mean no "permanent" structural changes will be made? In any event, one questions the wisdom of tinkering with the most famous, most recognizable symbol of Paris.

Advice from The NYT on how to live in France

Elaine Sciolino, the New York Times Paris bureau chief, is moving to a new assignment, so before she leaves for her new duties (which seem to be in Paris but are not clear to me), she is offering eight suggestions for understanding/co-existing with the French. This is a grab bag, more a bunch of anecdotes that she wants to share than real advice, but it's entertaining.

A quick summary:

1. Look in the rear view mirror. That is, history is important here.
2. An interview is not an interview. Transcripts may not reflect what was said. Sciolino is still smarting from an interview she had with Chirac about Iran and nuclear weapons.
3. The customer is always wrong. Needed to get shopping horror stories off her chest.
4. Make friends with a good butcher. An excuse to praise a local she never got around to writing about.
5. Kiss, but be careful who you hug. The rules are more fluid than you think.
6. Don't wear jogging clothes to wear a pound of butter. A hard lesson.
7. Feeling sexy is a state of mind, or buy good lingerie. More on the enviable sex lives of French women.
8. When it comes to politesse, there is no end to the lessons. My favorite hint: "Eat hamburgers, pizza, foie gras and sorbet with a fork."

Sorbet with a fork? Wow!

New England celebrates Francophonie (and so should you)

As a rule, I don't do Francophonie on the blog. Sure, I love the language, but to stay sane -- and follow my interests -- I usually limit my focus to the Hexagon (which, after a year and a half, remains a very rich source), not the dozens of other countries that speak French. Nonetheless, after attending a grand reception and dinner on Friday night which celebrated the commencement of this year's Weeks of Francophonie, and in anticipation of March 20 being the International Day of Francophonie, I'd like to make my New England neighbors aware of what they can enjoy over the next fortnight (and beyond).

• At the head of the post is a picture of the Francophonie flag flying over City Hall in Boston, the first time for such an occurrence.
• The dinner on Friday night had a very Quebecois theme, because it's Quebec's 400th birthday, and there'll be many recognitions in 2008 of that milestone. Attendees at the dinner included Michael Wilson, Canada's ambassador to the U.S., and Régis Labeaume, Quebec's mayor.
• Other activities over the next days will include music, movies, masses, museum tours, and more. Here's a calendar if you're nearby.
• The Boston Public Library has a special exhibit devoted to Samuel de Champlain that I'll write about once I visit it.
• Ditto for an exhibition at Boston University devoted to the Dreyfus Affair.

For the rest of ya's, say "bonjour" to everybody on March 20!

The end of some eras

Passings of note:

• Lazare Ponticelli, the last surviving French veteran of World War I, has died at the age of 110 (AP). Born in Italy, he lived in France for most of his life. During the war, he dug trenches and graves in the Argonne. A state funeral, honoring all of the "poilus" who served, is planned for Monday.
• Pearl Cornioley, who led Resistance efforts during World War II, also died this week (NYT). A British woman who was raised and lived in France, Cornioley led troops who inflicted hundreds of casualties on the Germans; she oversaw the surrender of over 18,000 enemy soldiers. Her life inspired the novel (and movie) Charlotte Gray. 
• One of America's biggest supporters in France, Foreign Minister Bernard Kouchner, has declared that "the magic is over" for the United States (IHT). A new president may restore some of the damage inflicted by George Bush on the country's prestige, Kouchner said, but it will take time, and "it will never be as before."

French entrepreneurs find a home -- in GB

President Sarkozy came to office with promises to make France more friendly to start-up businesses. Today's New York Times profiles some of the French go-getters who've left the country for England, where they've found conditions more amenable to their ambitions. It suggests that although changes have occurred, there's still much progress to be made before France is friendly to small businesses. The thirty-five hour work week is once again cited as a real obstacle; so are heavy taxes. In the meantime, relocation to England has a comfort for some of those who have jumped across the channel: if they chose a new home carefully, the shores of France are still visible.